Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Drakensberg, Karoo, Cape Town… and more

 
We have put our South Africa map to good use!

So, this blog will be a photo dump with some highlights, which is a shame considering what great places we just visited. Most of our stops on this trip through South Africa are really individual blog stories on their own. The title was cut short because it would have been a bit obnoxious but since this is a highlight blog entry, here you go. Drakensberg, Karoo, Cape Town, Cape of Good Hope, Table Mountain, Wine Country, Great White Diving, Garden Route, Canoeing, Zip Lining, Surfing Jefferys Bay (no apostrophe in name, can also be called Jefferysbaii), Addo Elephant Park!






We thought we were heading out on a 45 min leisurely walk to see some bushman art. 3 miles, uphill bushwhacking and more than 45 minutes later we arrived at the Grindstone Caves.  Totally worth it though. Gorgeous hike and the cave art was impressive.



The Protea is South Africa's national flower



Bushman rock art





camouflage in full effect

  These kids were kind enough to clear the road for us.


Somewhere on the road, somewhere on the Garden Route I had an insight into me and Kelly. It was after one of Kelly’s “I’m not worried about it” comments or maybe it was “screw it, it will be fine.” Before the trip if someone asked who was more “crazy” or” adventurous” I think most people and especially me would say that I was more fearless then Kelly. I learned two things on this trip; one, Kelly is so many ways far more fearless, and two we have different fears and strengths.
What I figured out is that I in comparison, I don’t have a lot physical fears or limitations. I don’t want to break an arm patting myself on the back BUT… I am not afraid of spiders, running through tall grass in Cobra country no big deal. Throwing my body off cliffs when snowboarding, surfing in shark waters… Physically I am very adventurous.
Now Kelly is a total rebel. I mean it very genuinely. She doesn’t like rules or being told No! The police officer that she gave a piece of her mind to in Tanzania!...well I was sweating bullets, and ready to hand over my wallet and siphon some gas out of the tank for him, just to get away. Not Kelly, she gave him the screws and guess what?! We didn’t pay a penny!  Example 2. If Chris goes into secure a camp spot from front desk, we get the “last spot” next to the highway. If Kelly goes in she comes out with a spot on the river that is only supposed to be for caravans, and it turns out we got a discount for having Tanzanian plates!

South Africa has the most amazing guest houses.  Like this one in Beaufort West near Karoo National Park




Based on his shell it looks like this poor guy has had some run ins with cars...or rocks. But he was still cruising along.



What contrast from the lush Drakensberg we just left. Still beautiful though.

Tough times in the Karoo


Oryx horns are nearly 3 feet long

Oryx in dry pan

Red Hartebeest

The best traveller ever


These individual cottages are some of the accommodation in Karoo National Park offered by South Africa National Parks.  They are typical of what you will find throughout the country at the different parks.   Nearby there is a restaurant, swimming pool and shop.  



 If we travelled separately it would be such a different trip. I would be camping in a dirt spot, next to the highway for twice the going rate. My little rebel doesn’t take No. I like to think I bring some energy and adventure to the trip. Speaking of adventure!
We made it to Cape Town!




V & A Waterfront


Cape Town Aquarium


Giant Crab


View of Cape Town from Robbin Island

Nelson Mandela's cell on Robbin Island.  In the courtyard outside we were told he maintained a nice garden.
















Well when it comes to adventure personalities, George and I have similar strengths and fears. Henry is much more like his mom, except maybe more cautious. Well not maybe more cautious, he is much more cautious. But I guess that is why I am so impressed and proud when he overcomes his fears. George like me, when afraid, is too afraid to let it show, you know the stiff upper lip deal. Not Henry, standing on a tree 100’ of the ground about to sail through the canopy hanging by a bit of rope and wire, he will let you know he is afraid. But! He does it. He squeezes his eyes tight and freezes solid, and lets me pick him up and toss him into the air. It took about 4 zip lines before he opened his eyes, and maybe 7 before he breathed! By the end he was all good to go and had a great time.


Even the boys went in the cage.  So brave!



The Captain of the boat gave Henry this seal decoy as a souvenir after a huge great white ripped it apart.  

We saw 16 great whites and 2 huge eagle rays. 
A big theme this trip has been “overcoming your fears” we talk about it a lot. I am trying to ask more questions and not just take what I am given. Kelly is squishing more and bigger spiders, bugs, creepy crawlies, and surfing with sharks. Henry is climbing higher, swimming further, and ordering his own food (although he has never been shy about ordering dessert before we can say No.) George, well George is down for most anything, I guess he is working on answering police officers, border agents, people in the road, people in lines… Everyone wants to pat the cute little boy or just say hi and George can be a little uncomfortable with the attention.





















One more rebel story. Driving in new countries, cities and what not, we often find ourselves in the wrong lane. Kelly’s common refrain is “just gun it”. “Just gun it” gets us through a lot. I really think Kelly is going to have a tough time adjusting to the states when we come back. Africa is a lot of “Just gun it”.

Best meal of the trip was at Bread and Wine in Franschhoek.  




Franschhoek



Camping out on the playground.  They were back in the tent within 10 minutes of us saying goodnight.







Springbok carpaccio salad.  YUM!









South africa has goat cheese and olives and pita bread and all sorts of delicious food.  It's going to be hard to leave.



Most beautiful campsite ever  - Storms River

















8 going on 14












One more travel story and then more photos. So back at home bureaucratic paper work is no fun and seems pointless. Let me tell you about no fun, pointless 7 hour adventure we had! So when we first crossed into South Africa they gave us a 90 day travel permit. We thought that each time we left and then re-entered we would get a new 90 days. Not so, we were given 90 days from our first entry! Or so we have been told, or guessed, border rules seem to be negotiable, and subjective. Anyway, we were told in order to not overstay our permit and not get in trouble we needed to get an extension. Of course Kelly wasn’t worried about it. So we go to a Homeland Affairs office at 6:30am for a 7:30 door opening and get in line. Quick highlights! The four people working travel permit desk shared one computer! The complete disaster of an agent helping us apparently was the only one capable of operating the computer and stopped every 10 minutes to help someone on the computer. We had to leave the building twice to make photo-copies because their machine wasn’t working. We had to leave a third time to get copies of bank statements showing we had the money to travel as we stood next to farmers from Lesotho. 7 miserable hours later as we are about done we find out for a 3 month extension the approval process takes 2 to 3 months! So they just give us a receipt and to tell us to inform the border agents it is in the process. We will be out of country and possibly home when they finally get to our extension! Yeah that is some pointless paperwork. The approving manager kept demanding more paperwork so it wouldn't get rejected! I told him I don’t care if it gets rejected I will be in Namibia then, just file it! No, we needed more paperwork.



Robbin Island Leper Graveyard

Robbin Island Church




swimming with penguins

Penguins at Boulders Beach






De Waterkant neighborhood in Cape Town.






jackals





Here they come

new baby!


smelling us



elephant walking past an elephant skull







Um...........Chris...........









Whenever we see this sign we say "Chris Meissner!"



Tomorrow we bid Swaziland Adieu after four wonderful months.  We are starting our journey back north towards Tanzania.  Our first stop is Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park for some Kalahari Safari.  Say that 3 times fast.  After that Namibia and Botswana.  Thanks to Sarah, Armand and Lila for making us feel so at home and to their community of friends for welcoming us.  We won't forget these special days. Now on we go.